One really needs to take several trips to the Saudi souks in order to truly begin to appreciate their beauty and wonder. This morning I went down to my favorite, the “Clocktower” Souk (or the souk by “Chop Chop Square” as Westerners so unceremoniously refer to the location in Riyadh where public executions are still performed). I knew a few of the vendors already and thus I prepared to shop discerningly and to really evaluate and observe the items I considered for purchasing (as opposed to just buying the first intriguing or sparkling item to catch my eye). I was not looking for secret back alley troves or limited edition antiques, but rather, I hope to find treasures of a certain authenticity and sentimentality. Many of the items sold in the souks are commercially made and tailored towards Western needs and ideals of “Arabia”. There are thousands of leather camels, decorations and instruments that look a hundred years old but are really quite contemporary and not at all “traditional” objects.
I must admit, rather cautiously, that I am a bit of an “Orientalist” -- to borrow from the the originally racist term later modernized by Palestinian author Edward Said. I am enamored with the Middle East and Arab culture in particular. I am also drawn to Far East Asian items and other trinkets that look exotic and remind me of what ancient times may have been like along the old Silk Road. I know that I romanticize the “Orient”, but I do so with nothing but reverence and appreciation in my heart. I do not think of Saudis, Pakistanis, or Afghanis as “simple people” but rather I envy their connection to a historical past laden with beauty, mystery and adventure.
After wandering around for several hours with my good friends (a lovely American couple flourishing in their first year “overseas”) I purchased two daggers, three bejeweled bangles, a small jewelry box, three pashmina shawls, a chess set and some Christmas ornaments. I’m quite proud of my purchases. Though I bartered for each of them I am sure I was still over-charged, but honestly what does it matter? These souk stalls are these mens’ livelihoods and I would honestly rather give them my hard earned money than spend it in shopping malls buying meaningless gifts. I feel good giving these men my business. They are down there working at their souk stalls for around ten to twelve hours a day encountering probably only a handful of customers. They buy their precious items from their impoverished home countries such as Pakistan and Afghanistan and bring them back here to Saudi Arabia to sell at a sizable profit to predominantly rich Americans and Brits. I ask every man I do business with where he is from and the three main nationalities are Pakistani, Afghani and Turkish. I believe, or rather, I hope that when these men return home to buy their shop items, they pay their compatriots well and provide support to their friends and family.
I am exhausted, but happy. I feel so grateful for my life. I am living in a country that inspires me, doing a job that I am passionate about and I am surrounded by kind, loving and supportive friends and family. I am strong, confident and independent and unlike so many other women in this world, I do not need a man in my life. Of course I would love to find someone special some day but the fact of the matter is that I don’t need to! Though I may need a man to drive me around or buy me items in certain stores here, I don’t need a man to define who I am.
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